The 20-somethings at the table next to ours were wrapping up brunch when the server asked about dessert. They hemmed and hawed a bit before giving in to three glossy scoops of vanilla ice cream accompanied by a silver boat of hot fudge sauce, which they dispatched in short order. When the server circled back to check on their progress, the appreciative woman responded, “You were soooo right.”
Another satisfied Café Monet customer. Of which there seem to be many.
Opened in May in downtown McLean, Monet is the latest from KNEAD Hospitality + Design, whose DMV portfolio also includes Succotash in National Harbor, Mi Vida at The Wharf and Penn Quarter, and upscale sandwich shop Beresovsky’s Deli in Navy Yard, among others. It’s an attractive space marked by high ceilings, Palladian windows and shimmering fixtures that evoke the colors of Claude Monet’s famed water lilies.
Which fits, given that the European-inspired cafe was created in partnership with the McLean Project for the Arts. Tucked inside MPA’s Berlage Arts & Education Center, the restaurant is well positioned to serve art lovers who wander in after perusing the adjoining gallery, as well as residents of the million-dollar condos that occupy the building’s upper floors. In nice weather, a sun-splashed patio with a gurgling marble fountain and outdoor seating for 50 furthers the appeal.
The weekend brunch is on point. Avocado toast meets French tartine in a flaky croissant topped with the celebrated super food, plus grassy cow’s milk cheese, pickled shallots, arugula and a crispy fried egg with a runny yolk.
A fluffy omelet stuffed with goat cheese, summer squash and tomatoes is accompanied by a radish-flecked salad and addictive fingerling potatoes. The secret to those spectacular spuds, according to KNEAD corporate chef Jonathan Dearden, is in the prep. They’re simmered in an aromatic stock, then smashed, fried and tossed with butter and parsley.
Early risers with a sweet tooth will fall for the pain perdu (“lost bread”), a truly French rendition of egg-soaked French toast with a caramelized crust. Equal parts breakfast and dessert, it’s filled with mixed berries and custard. Très jolie!
Dearden’s all-day menu similarly invites exploration. Some patrons are content to linger over glasses of wine and shareables, such as the standout pull-apart sourdough bread (made inhouse) that’s just the right level of garlicky, cheesy and slightly peppery. The top-selling burrata is another stunner, piling bulbs of milky cheese, crushed pistachios, hot honey and basil pesto atop toasted sourdough.
Not to be outdone, an eye-catching tarte flambée is crowned with melted gruyere, caramelized onions (nice pop of sweet), meaty lardons and fresh dill.
The mains on the menu include several French standards—steak frites, roasted chicken, a rotating quiche. A satisfying, fork-tender beef bourguignon rides in on a bed of creamy mashed potatoes, its winey broth studded with a gardenful of onions, carrots and mushrooms.
Feeling more Mediterranean? The pan-roasted salmon, with its spice-rubbed crust and perfectly cooked center, is also memorable. A side of ratatouille makes it even better.
The one head-scratcher is a riff on jambon beurre (French for “ham butter”), a sandwich that traditionally pairs those two ingredients, simply and elegantly, on a crusty baguette. Dearden’s dressier version packs in black forest ham, prosciutto, cured sausage, gruyere, cornichons, honey butter and mixed greens. “It’s a mashup of a traditional jambon beurre and a classic hoagie,” he says, meant to deliver “bigger flavors.”
While I enjoyed the added meats, cheese and vinegary greens, the ensemble is really more of an Italian-style sub than a Parisian snack. If you fall into the more-is-more camp, Café Monet’s take will probably work for you. But if you have your heart set on the classic preparation, this ain’t that.
When it comes to desserts, a dense, cocoa-dusted chocolate torte with a dollop of whipped cream is probably the richest of the bunch. My favorite, though, was a jiggly lemon bar layering tart lemon curd atop a shortbread crust. It’s fruity, fresh, and I’ll take another slice right now.
What To Drink
Café Monet’s impressive beverage program features several wines by the glass ($11-$16), among them a sparkling Austrian Zweigelt rosé, citrusy Spanish Albariño and lush French Syrah. Two dozen wines by the bottle include two rosés, six whites, 14 reds and two dessert-friendly varietals. The priciest investment is a $235 bottle of French Champagne.
A Spritz All Day menu ($12.50 each) features six sparklers brightened with spirits ranging from bittersweet Aperol to nutty Oloroso sherry. A bubbly elderflower cooler with a splash of St-Germain is their top selling spritz.
Of the half-dozen specialty cocktails ($13-$16), I particularly enjoyed the mango-ginger tap dance of the vodka-based Painter’s Punch. The spice-rimmed Calabrian Paloma strikes a bolder note, bringing a hint of chili-fueled heat to the combo of tangy grapefruit and tequila.
Pinching pennies? Featured cocktails, including two non-alcoholic options, are $8 a pop during a weekday happy hour from 2-5 p.m.
Café Monet
6910 Fleetwood Road, McLean, 703-356-6722
Hours
Sunday through Thursday: 8 a.m. to 9 p.m.
Friday and Saturday: 8 a.m. to 10 p.m.
Parking
Free parking spots are available in the building’s garage. Street parking is also available.
Prices
Appetizers: $10 to $19
Entrees: $16 to $39
Brunch: $5 to $17
