Stroll the streets of Québec City during the holiday season and you’ll feel as if you’ve stepped inside a veritable snow globe. Town squares and cobblestone alleys are filled with twinkling lights, evergreen garlands and the trill of carolers. Laughter emanates from tiny taverns that glow like lanterns, and the crunch of snow is underfoot.
Founded in 1609 by French explorer Samuel de Champlain, this charming, bilingual Canadian city embraces the great outdoors year-round, even when temperatures plunge well below freezing. Parkas and boots are de rigueur as the days grow shorter, but the mood is merry and bright, and the vibe is almost European.
Mid-November is when the city’s German-style Christmas markets come alive, serving vin chaud (mulled wine), pretzels and baguettes filled with melted raclette cheese. Vendor stalls overflow with one-of-a-kind ornaments, handmade wool and leather goods, candles, nutcrackers, local maple syrup, fruit preserves and chocolate. Chabad of Québec City hosts nightly Hanukkah menorah lightings.
Sweetening the city’s appeal is the fact that it’s only a two-hour direct flight from the D.C. area. This easy weekend getaway is sure to put a smile on any Scrooge.
Where to Eat & Drink
Québec City’s culinary scene shines with traditional French-Canadian fare, including comfort foods like poutine and pâté chinois, a Depression-era dish similar to shepherd’s pie (the name is a bit of a misnomer) served in most pubs.
But don’t think of the local food scene as wholly provincial. There’s plenty of upscale gastronomy, too, from a Michelin-starred tasting menu to steakhouses and brasseries that rival some of Montreal’s best.
Case in point is Chef François-Emmanuel Nicol’s two-Michelin-starred Tanière3, tucked away on the historic street of Petit-Champlain. The menu offers a taste of Québec’s surrounding terroir, incorporating ingredients found in boreal forests and fresh fish from the St. Charles and St. Lawrence rivers. The chef’s blind tasting menu is never revealed in advance, but recent dishes have included a luxurious wagyu steak with sea urchin, and venison topped with black Jerusalem artichokes and hazelnuts.
For an easy midday meal, head to Pub L’Oncie Antonie and sit by the fireplace to warm up with a bubbling crock of French onion soup topped with Gruyère cheese. Occupying a 17th-century brick cellar, this cozy tavern is a beer-lover’s dream, pouring more than a dozen craft brews on tap, from small-batch ciders to wheat, red and brown ales.
If you find yourself in need of an afternoon pick-me-up, take a latte break at Smith Café, where the coffee drinks are made with locally roasted beans and the ambiance includes windows overlooking Québec City’s giant Christmas tree in the Place Royale square.
Near the Old Port of Québec are two brasseries favored by locals for their prime cuts of meat. Louise Taverne & Bar à Vin serves viands ranging from beef tartare to house-made charcuterie, although the Canadian beef rib steaks are its must-try dish. Chez Rioux & Pettigrew, housed inside what was a 1900s general store, is known for its surf-and-turf special—hanger steak with tiger prawns and herbed potato gnocchi. On Sundays, its brunch menu includes mouthwatering plates of crispy smoked pork belly and duck rillettes topped with Nordic berry jam.
Where to Stay
Compared with larger Canadian cities like Montreal and Toronto, Québec City is relatively wallet friendly. If you’re aiming to hit the holiday markets, late November and early December are ideal times to visit, as hotel rates tend to go up closer to Christmas.
The elegant Auberge Saint-Antoine, conveniently located near the city’s Old Port neighborhood, has November and December room rates starting at about $300 per night. This boutique Relais & Châteaux property recently underwent a major renovation, adding 25 rooms and suites, a new spa and a rooftop restaurant overlooking the St. Lawrence River. The hotel puts on one of the city’s best breakfast buffets at its Ferme du Coteau —try the Montreal bagels with smoked salmon—and offers afternoon tea service in the lobby bar every Saturday and Sunday.
For an opulent and historic sojourn, consider the Fairmont Le Château Frontenac, home to 610 beautifully furnished rooms and suites, three restaurants and a world-class spa housed inside a castle-like fortress built in 1893. This landmark structure is visible all across the city and is one of the world’s most photographed hotels for its Châteauesque architectural style. Rates start at about $300 per night in November and $400 per night in December. But you needn’t be a hotel guest to pop in and ogle its fairytale lobby—a dream-scape of evergreens, glowing lights and floral arrangements that go up in early November.
Yet another lodging option is the budget-friendly 31 McMahon in the Vieux-Québec neighborhood. Occupying a vintage building, this keyless access apartment hotel makes check-in and check-out fast and convenient. It offers multiple room layouts, some with living rooms, kitchenettes, spare bedrooms and exposed brick walls. Room rates start as low as $115 per night in November and December.
Things to Do
Begin your stay by wandering Old Québec, stopping at scenic spots such as the Citadelle de Québec , a military installation and museum overlooking the St. Lawrence River, and the riverfront promenade Terrasse Dufferin. For a thrill-ride with sweeping views of the city skyline, book a toboggan ride on the AU 1884, an 800-foot wooden track with old-timey sleds that reach speeds of 43 miles per hour. (The winter season begins Dec. 4.) Then take a leisurely stroll along the car-free Rue du Petit-Champlain, the city’s most photographed street, where stone buildings dating back more than 400 years are decked in holiday greenery.
The perennial German Christmas Markets transform the Old City into a magical European-style village with nativity and evergreen displays, live music and dozens of open-air shopping stalls. The market at Place D’Youville resembles an alpine hamlet and overlooks an outdoor ice-skating rink. Browse the Place de l’Hôtel-de-Ville next to City Hall for a variety of artisan crafts.
The gift bazaar next to the Château Frontenac at the Place d’Armes is arguably the liveliest, featuring food and wine vendors, as well as performance stages set up for carolers and musical groups. All of the markets are free and open to the public Thursday through Sunday, Nov. 19-Dec. 20, and then daily from Dec. 21-23.
After all that holiday merriment, don’t forget to budget some time for relaxation. Québec City leans European in this way too, boasting several world-class Nordic spas within a short walk or taxi ride from the city’s center.
At Strøm Spa, an indoor/outdoor complex prized for its Zen-like architecture, riverside views and wellness-themed cafeteria, dining in your white terry-cloth robe and slippers is highly encouraged. Take a soak in the thermal baths or sweat it out in the saunas and steam rooms, then indulge in a nap or a good book (no phones or electronic devices are allowed in the quiet zones) in the solarium or outside by the hammocks and fire pits. Be sure to book in advance, as day passes typically sell out.
Alternatively, spring for a cab and escape to one of the nearby forest spas, such as Sibéria Spa or Nordique Spa Stoneham to luxuriate in heated outdoor pools and private treatments ranging from facials to Swedish-style massages.
While most of the spas are limited to guests 16 and older, Sibéria offers family mornings every Sunday, when children ages 5 to 15 can be accompanied by an adult at each of the thermal baths. Think of this as your pre-holiday calm before the in-laws arrive.
